Necticut



H. B. lGOULD, .IRL

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLxcATloN HLED1uNE13.19|7.

Patented Oct. 21, 1919.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

INVENTUM UKW wmc HIS ATTDRNEYS- UNirED STATES PATENTA orF-icE`.gf i

HARRYR GOULD,y JR., or HARTFORD, coNNEcTIcUnAssIGNoR To THRiviERRow or HARTFORD, coNNRcTIcU'RA coRroRATIZ'oN or con.,y

A MACHINE COMPANY, N Ec'rIcUta To all whom it may concern:

Beitknownthatl, HARRY B. Gouril), Jr.,

Va citizen of the'United States, residing in Machines; andA I do declare theV following to be a full, .cleai', andeXafctdescription .0fl

the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings,forining a part of'thisspecification, and to the characters of reference marked thereon.'

This invention relates lto sewing machines for producing. ornamental ystitching upon fabric edges. Such stitching is much. used Vin finishing underwear', and in a particular formas produced by. al\[errow crocheting machine, is commonly knownv as the shell stitch. This'form of'iinish is characterized by y stitches securedA in groups `to they fabric near the edge at'points comparatively widely Y separated. Eachgroup of stitches com-4 Y Vprises upper and lower loops radiating from Y are .radii ofan arc assumed by` the con' jcatenated border. y It also' follows that that V` radiate. f

their common point of fabric penetration to beyond the edge of the fabric where they yare enchained to form a continuousvscallopedV border, the finish simulating-1n its entirety a'row of shells with their 1sides in contact.vr Obviouslyjthe scalloped eect isV due to the fact that the radial stitches or `loops mentioned are usuallyof substantially uniform length or, in other words, they `part of the border which is midway between thegapen'es ofthe scallops or shells is nearest l.to vthe edge ofthe fabric. I find that by `securingthese midfportionsjto the fabric by stitches with radii considerably'shcrter than zthose formingthe radii of the shells, avery `firm ornamentalV nish with an accentuated scalloped appearance is produced. if

f The. object of the'present invention is the provision in a shellA stitch machine of nijeans for producing a'shellstitchlnish with the concatenated border. of .the `shells secu red` to the :fabricby stitches. 'intermediatemhe points from whichstitches forming theshells Salient features'lof the mea-ns"employeld include-feed. mechanism alternately effective fat,'intervals of' differentduration,' a mov,- Yable etthf-.fingelfhevg Parteof defent Width'-abQetWhrh.feiiferentetiiha a YsRwiNc-ivrACHI.NE.Y

finish are respectively formed, sutabletakeups and: automatic ytension devices operable in* correlation to Vmovements., of the. feedY mechanism and stitch linger all of which -willbef fully set forth in the following Vde- .scription` of the accompanyingdrawings `wherein one form ofembodimentl of Vmy invention is illustrated. i i in? In the drawings, 1. 'i l yshell stitch machine provided fwith' mecha.

. nismrcomprising my invention. Y'

. n lFig. 42, is an enlarged diagrammatic idetail Figure `1', is. afront` elevation of-"a Merrw v` .Y

view'of an edge finishA formed iii'accordance f with my`invention .f .Y

Fig. 3,. isa plan view of part of thefront 4end of? the machine shownin Fig..- 1 with the workfplaterbroken away to disclosev the. f-feed mechanism, and-l l 1 f" z .Fig.,4, is an endfelevationk of the feed Amechanism.shown in.Fig.3. "Like characters ofreference :designate` 'fsimilar parts throughoutthe several -views `lof thedrawings which' it :will benoted are Y'not all-ofthe same scale;

Referring to the drawings, the ,stitch-k forming 'elements Acomprisethe needle f1, g .crochet hook 2, chaining finger 13' and supaoY Ypleinental thread-carrier 4. The needle is 'i *mountedin Ya bar 5,V for reciprocation in a path extending through the needle plate or -work plate, adjacent the forwardfendl of the chaining fnger,"aiid is driven from the main shaft 8, Athroughintermediate elements nas ,f

12, .and needle bar clamp laz'lhe crochetA hook 2,;held in carrier 14, is adapted toreyciprocatefin a path extending abovevr and Abelow the needle plate, eandY passing'around a thek chaining finger, said carrier 14,: being eccentric 4.9,-v connecting rod:10lever11, link i y 4may beI imparted ley-fa' pair' of intergea-led 1 iccAM of said cam effects an oscillatory movementA of' carrier 4, whichcauses the freeend lof said carrier to move vacross the path of the needle. This supplemental thread carrier is not essential to effect the formation of Y stitches butis preferably employed to intro-Y duce into the stitches an additional thread Vto enhance the beauty of finish and produce a Imore substantial edge.

A fabric: edge guide as 30 is adjustably attached tothe frame cap and serves 'the usual purpose of such devices fto regulate the depth of stitch.

Work engaging feed elements comprise `the presser foot 34, and. feed dogV 35. To

permit of the required reciprocation of the feed dog it is associated with a slide 36, and in orderfthat movement of the feed dog `with Vrespect to the work may be rendered effective or ineffective to advance the work, the slide is mounted in a shiftablemember such as a guide bar 37, fulcrumed at one end onfa stud 38. Obviously the position of guide bar 37, determines the position of the feed dog with respect to the work plate 6, and therefore the relation of the feed dog to the work supported by the work plate. Slide 36, which is fitted in a groove 40, of the guide bar, and laterally supported by a contiguous wall 4l, of the machine frame,

is free to be'reciprocated longitudinally of the guide bar by'mechanism indicated in a general way by 42. This mechanism Vincludes a rock lever 43, connected by a link 44,7withan eccentric 45, on the main shaft 8. At one end, rocklever 43, is fulcrumed on a short shaft 46,'V and at its other end it is provided with a slot 47, adapted to receive a pin 48, projecting rigidly from slide 36, through a slot'49, in guide bar 37. Intermediate its ends, rock leverf43, is provided with an elongated slot 50 wherein a stud 51, connecting said lever and link 44, may Vbe adjusted to vary theV amount* of throw imparted to the rock lever, thus regulatingA the reciprocatory movement of slide 36, and the feed dog 35, relative to the 'guide bar. From the foregoing description it will be apparent that when the machine is in operation the feed dog is continuously reciprocated. In other words, a completere- `vciprocation of the feed dog occurs for each A,cycle of the'stitch forming elements* I'The feed dog, however, Vis Veffective for advancing Vthe workV only-wlien the guide bar37 is shifted tothe position in which itis shown in Fig. 4, during intervals when saidr'feed dog is moving 4in the direction of arrow A, If the 4guide bar "were 'thusl shifted foreach vof the guide bar stitch forming cycle, the work would be correspondingly advanced step by step, and the needle would make a separate penetration for each stitch. If, however, the shifting of the guide bar is effectedonlyvat interquently a corresponding number of stitches will be secured at practically one point of needle penetration, and if, for example, the non-feeding interval extends over eight stitch-forming cycles, a'cluster or shell of eight `stitches will vbe produced. The style of finish diagraminatieally illustrated in Fig. 4, consists of eight stitchV shells with their concatenated border, at adjacent points of consecutive shells, `secured by a single vstitch penetrating Ythe fabric at a point about midway between needle penetrations,

at which'are secured the radial stitches of' respective shells.

To produce this finish the required action of the feed mechanismy consists Yin advancing the work step by .step of 'uniform ylength Vvals Yof several stitch formin cycles, 'no advance in the work will 'be e ected except at the completion of such intervalsand conseat intervals alternately of eight stitch cycles and a one stitch cycle.

Mechanism for correspondingly shifting tlie'guide bar 37 ,isA indicated in ageneral way by 56. It includes a gear V58, mounted o na stud 59, and meshingwith a pinion 60, at the eXtreme end of main shaft 8. Secured to the gear 58, is a cam 61, having 'two rises 62 and'63, adapted,upon rotation of the gear, to alternately actuate" the lguide bar 37, through interposedl parts compris# ing the shoe 64, fitted to the guide bar, and a pin 65, carried by an arm 66, pivoted at 67. VThe guide barshoe is provided with a side flange 68, having an elongated slot 69to receive the attaching screw 70. Thek surface of shoe 64, with which pin 65 engages, is so disposed that adjustment of the attaching screw along the guide bar will v ary the position of the feed dog carried by the guide bar with respect to the work." Y When the pin 65, is not engaged by either of the cam rises. it is retracted against a stop 72 by the inliuence offspring 73, housed in a bore of the machine frame and adapted to exert a suitable pressure against that edge whichy is opposite the said pin65.

`It will be understood that the ratioY ,ofV

pinion 60 to-gear 58, andthe circumferential intervalsfbetween the cam rises 62 and'63,

Vd'et-xrmine the lnumber of stitches that the mechanism is adapted to produce after each `advance of the work,l As shown the number of teeth'A in theV pinion is to the number of teeth in the gear as oneis tonine, z'. e.

for each revolution Aof thefgear there are once toraise'the feedfdg into' work ad.-

'ninefstitch-forming" cycles. During.y these cycles the cam`risesp62andf63' each operate Y vancing position respectively after. inter- Y vals of eight stitchsforming cyclesand one those composing the shells. The variation involved iscontrolled byYtake-ups, s mechanism for shifting the chainingV inger'and devices for changing the tension on` the thread, all ina manner thatjvvill novvV be described. f

`The chaining finger 3, mounted |for sliding movement on the Work-plateis provided `,at its -inner end with a'narrow part 73 and 'la Wider part 74. Duringthe ormation'of the stitches composing theV shells thestitch fingerA is shifted solthat the'VWide pa'rt 74s, occupies the field of stitchV formation, While during the formation off the shorter or inter- `mediate stitch, the stitch -lnger is shifted so that its narrow part 7 3, occupies the field of stitch formation. s s; Any suitable means may be employedr'for shifting the stitch finger. vAs ishovvn'they includea rockshaft 75, mounted in bracket Y76` secured toi-the under side of thervvorlrplate.V At 4one" end of the'rock Ashaft `there 'is secured an-arm 77 connected at'its outer y end with the stitch-finger 4p, byay Vlink 78. To 'theother' end'o the rockshaft therefr is Ycla'mpedjan arm`79,"extendinginto-engage s ,ment Withthe cam V80, adjustably 'secured "screvvs 8-1 tothe gear 58j Thev arm 7 9 182,' so that Whenl the cam is rotated'itsfef- Vect'together with thatV ofthespring causes iso ytheV armV to oscillate, y mitted through" shaft 7 5, -arm 77, and link 7 8, tothestitchlingerl sothat/the narrow 93; on cam f90' isadapted to VYinterniittently s Vengagean yarm 94, vclamped to'one end fof a rod 95, Vwhich isf held Vinfsome' ksuitable *manner for lendWlse movementvonlyL-P vAs shovvntheirod is "squarejforafpartof its length Iand "this llzart'i is supported s so that it cannot'rotatein fthe square lhole`v of a bear-- fing96. V Beyond 'the bearing' 96,'Ythe rodris extended vthrough the machine `frame V'at 197,

andthreadedfatlits'endvto receive the bifurk-j cated` head- 98. -ll Supportedfonafulcru-in faction 'upon the thread. -Means forcontrolling the.` v

thread comprise a tension 'device 108,3and1 a thread `engaging elementz109,:mounted on Ylever'llf `The tension-device :being neari'thel ffulcrum of lever 1l, partakesirslightlyfof the isa leVer1:100,-having one end `'piv'oted to head 98 and the other end slotted'V to engage a pin 101, carriedby a tube 102,;,sleeved .upon theV tension supporting stud 103, Vback ofthe tension disks 104. obviously by snding tube 102, allongthe .tension stud the ten-V sion spring is affected in a mannerto .vary the pressure exerted by thetensiondisks.

Normally, due to eiecttransmitted through -thelever 2100,;and associated parts, the tube 102 is vheld against the machine frame as shown in: Fig. 1, bylthe spring' 105, which surrounds rod 95 between the machine iframe' and head 98.-v AThis is the position of 'Y tube 7102,l Amaintained for tensioning the i" Vthread While. the `shell stitches are being M7;

formed. Suitable tension for the intermediy.ate stitches,iz". e. an increased tension, Vis

thereby shiftingfrod to the leftvandtube l -102 tothe right as seen in Fig. 1.

Betvveen tension disks 104:and the; thread `serving through the' described movement 90 Y imparted-to said pin to effect-a controlling supplemental Y lmovement of vth'elatter.r A'moreampliied Y .l

rmovement is imparted tovthread engag- Y is held in contactwith cam 80 by a spring ing element 109Which voscillates. between'V thread guides f 110 and 111, said-'threadV guides being' securedjto the machine ffram'e. Y The motionis trans`- rlfhe efectof the combined' Vmovementsv 'of tensioni device '108, Vandl Ythread engagingv element 109, causes-pulling' ott-and taking up of the thread atfsuitable intervals YandV inde- #sired amounts'.` Y- Y. 4The various 'parts ofl the machineha'vif ing beendescribed in detail their mode of Y operation may `be, "conciselysstated' afs4 olrtionrwith the Work properlyintroducedbeneath 'the' presser foot'V to vreceive stitches,

' theY gneedle',vr for eight stitch-:forming cycles, *penetrates'thef Work' at f' substantially; the 71157, Y

s'ame'pint eight times to formvei'ght stitches,

With tensions,ftalre-fups "andvv stitch-1V fingers Y adjusted to produce shells''of'desi'red' form.k l

The cam krise 's'then 'causes the fee/dine'chy 'V f anism, to advance the Work'halfthedistancei- 'to the rpoint-Where the nextshellYis-toibe attached. YDuring the next stit ch#for-ming jicyclei'eam'80,fandcaml-90,irespectively*shift f the stitch"i1 1ger `fand alter the-Vtensiononthe V"threadso'v thatf astitch composed ofv loops ff fmjuchshorterfthan y-thoseoif the shells jrsgprio-y uducefdl; y'The stitch altering ,devicesY are; then 'caused to'fres'ume their' relationy vfor produ'cs ing the'loops ofthe next shell; l'andafter soy another advance of the work caused by the effect of cam rise 63 on the feed mechanism,

invention what of stitch formation a different part thereof. for each consecutive interval of Astitch form-V ing cycles.

' 2. In a sewing machine'in combination with stitch forming elements, work feeding mechanism operable to effect itsv work advancing action between consecutive intervals of different numbers of stitch forming cycles, a shiftable stitch finger having parts of different cross sectional area, means for shifting the stitch finger to move into Vthe field of stitch formation a different part thereof for each consecutive linterval of stitch formingl cycles, and means for diiferently tensioning the thread foreach consecutive interval of stitch forming cycles.k y

3. In a sewing machine in combination with stitch forming elements a feeddog, a

V.rotary shaft, mechanism driven by the shaft for reciprocating the feed dog, a pinion rigid with the shaft, a gear in mesh with the pinion, a cam associated with the gear for moving the feed dog into work engaging relation, at consecutively unequal intervals, a shiftable stitch finger having parts of different cross-sectional area, and means operable during the work advancing action for moving a different part of the stitch finger into the field of stitch formation for each consecutive interval between engagements of the feed dog with the work. Y Y

4. `In a sewingl machineA in combination with stitch forming elements, a feed dog, a rotary shaft, mechanism driven by the shaft for reciprocating the feed ,Y dog, a pinion rigid ywith the shaft, a gear in meshvwith the pinion,a cam associated'with theA gear for .moving the feed dog into' work engaging relation at A consecutively unequal intervals,

and means also associated with the gearfor changing the tension on the thread-at each Y .Y consecutive interval between advancing engagements ofthework bythe feed dog.

*5. In a sewing machine, inV combination with stitch 4forming Y elements, .y -mechanism operable between consecutive .intervals of Y different numbers of stitch forming cycles to feed the vvorlr, and mean-s for changing ythe tension upon the threadf'during advance Aof the-work. Y i

6. In a sewing-machine,l in combination with stitch forming elements, Work feeding mechanism for advancing the work at intervalsA wherein respectively the number of stitch forming cycles executed varies, a

stitch nger and means operable during the with stitch forming elements, work feedingV i mechanism for advancing thel work Yat intervals wherein respectively the number of stitch. forming cyclesvaries, Yandmeans for effecting a different tension upon the thread respectively for intervals ofthe same `number yof stitch-forming cycles.

'8. Ina sewingmachine, in combination with stitch forming elements, work feeding mechanism for advancing the work at' intervals wherein respectively the number of stitch-forming cycles varies, a stitch finger, means for shifting the stitch finger to a different predetermined position respectively for intervals of the,V same lnumber of stitch forming cycles, and means for `effecting ardiiferent tension upon the thread respectively Vfor intervals of the samey number of stitch forming4 cycles.` v

9. In a sewing machine, in combination with stitch 'forming elements,` aV work plate, a feed dog, a rotary shaft, mechanism driven by the shaft for reciprocating the feed dog, a pinion rigid with thefshaf-t, a gear in mesh withthe pinion, a cam associated with the gear, a stitch finger slidably supported by the work plate, andmeans including a rock shaft interposed between the cam and stitch finger wherebyythe latterl may be moved to alter the character of the stitching. i

soY

10. In a sewing machine `in combination with stitch forming elements, a work plate,a

stitch finger movably supported by thework plate, a thread tensioning device, a lever associatedfwith the thread tensioning device, and movable to vary the tension effected thereby, means for movingthe stitchfinger into different positions .withrespect to the field .of stitchformation, means for moving the lever associated with the tensioning de-Y iis vice to differently tension-the thread kfor eachl `position of the stitch finger andra thread controlling element movable with said lever adapted; to engage the thread be-V Y tween the tensioning dev-ice and theneedle.V

Y 11. In a -crotchet machine-in combination with stitch formingyelements including `a supplemental thread carrier, aneedle; actuating lever fulcrumed Y'upontheV machineL frame,; a thread tensioning device 'carried by the leverrv near itsv fulcrum, thread guides .onthemachine frameYand a thread engag- Y" ing: elementecarried by the leverg and movf able thereby between V the thread guides, the kis() movement imparted to the tension device and thread engaging 'element serving t0 control the take-up and pull-off .of the supplemental thread. Y

12. In a shell-stitch machine in combination a Work plate, a stitch finger slidably vsupported by the work plate, stitch formingv elements including a reciprocating needle, and a crotchet hook, the latter being operable in a path extending across the needle path above and beloW the Work plate and around the stitch finger, means for feeding the Work at intervals of different duration and means for effecting a change in the position of the stitch finger fordifferent intervals.

" 13. In a shell stitch machine in combination, a lWork plate, a stitch,iingerslidably supported by the work plate, stitch forming elements Vincluding a yreciprocating needle and a crochet hook,'the latter being operable in a path extending across the needle path above andbelow the Work plate and around edge ofthe stitch finger, means for feeding the Work at intervals of different duration, means for effecting a change in the position of the stitch finger for different intervals and means for eecting a change in the tension upon the thread for diiferent intervals. l

Y HARRY B. GOULD, JR. Witnesses: G. H. WHITE,

F. E. VV ANDERSON.

`Copies of this patent may be obtained for ve cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of'late'nts,

' Washington, D. C. 

